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Plump hedgehog mushrooms are fruiting at the forest’s edge, but there’s no time to stop for these gourmet edibles – Eliana has already scurried up the rocky path far ahead of us. “Pa! Waxy caps!”

While not edible, these brilliant, diminutive red mushrooms that evoke the realm of woodland sprites are a favorite find for our mycophilic daughter. But this is no time to slow down. By the time I’ve reached the waxy caps, Eliana is already on to the next find, which she confidently identifies – “Pigskin poison puffballs!”

It doesn’t take much to excite the kid, yet she keenly understands the stakes of our hunt and keeps her eyes on the prized culinary gems: “Pa, do you know what my favorite mushrooms are?” I don’t have time to wager a guess, for she has swiftly answered her own question. “Chanterelles, black trumpets, lobsters, and lion’s mane. Can we find some of those?”

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Our party of three resumes the hunt, feeling poised and purposeful in the wet September woods, and soon we have found each of Eliana’s favorites except for lobsters. That’s quite all right, since a hearty catch of lobsters already awaits us in a paper bag back home in our refrigerator.

One find stands out – a pristine golden chanterelle beside a bubbling brook, that Eliana carefully plucked and affectionately coddled as we traipsed through the woods. When we got home Jenna cooked a medley of our finds in a light cream sauce with tortellini, and Eliana devoured the morsels of black trumpet, yellow foot, and lion’s mane before noticing she had not yet tasted that lone golden chanterelle. “Mama! Is my gold chanterelle in here?” she demanded.

Sure enough, it was right there on Papa’s plate, the false, forking gills and golden hue still visible. Relieved, Eliana grabbed her fork, reached across the table and dug in, claiming the mushroom that was rightfully hers – that she had harvested from the cool earth just hours before.  There is nobody who would have appreciated that forest-to-table chanterelle more, or with whom I would have preferred to share it.

Early September may be my favorite time to hunt mushrooms in New England, with stunning diversity and no shortage of surprises. There are still a few more weeks to get out and enjoy the fruits of fall, as each crisp night finds new species joining the autumn entourage. We hope you are savoring the season.

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Morel Queen

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Morel Revelation