I spot a single porcini and veer off-trail on impulse, following the narrow spine of a coniferous ridge along an undefined path blazed by deer. The landscape is steep and unforgiving, and the fungi dwindle as I hit higher and drier ground. Wild turkeys disperse into the trees as I reach the crest of the hill, feeling duped and sidetracked by the lone porcini.

Forgive me, foragers. Life has been hectic, and a month has past since my last ForageCast. Fortunately, I have nothing but good news to report. After two long-awaited prolonged showers, the woods are beginning to burst with mushrooms. The rain coincided with a cold front throughout the region, which means we are starting to see the full cast of fall fungi. The past couple days I have been starting to find yellow foot chanterelles, hedgehogs, and porcini, and today a reader submitted a photo of a maitake that generously fruited on a stump right in his backyard!

When not overripe, lion’s mane has a delicate seafoody flavor and sublime texture that reminds me of scallops. Cooking it perfectly takes practice, however. I like it best sautéed in butter and garlic on a medium heat, until it gets just slightly brown and crispy on the tips. Today’s lion’s mane I sautéed with sliced local apples in ginger, garlic, and butter. Yum! All lion’s mane species are very absorbent, so specimens should be squeezed out like a sponge after washing (or not washed at all if fairly clean when found). The mushroom holds up to a good wringing out surprisingly well, whereas sautéing wet lion’s mane spoils the texture.